Using EPDM Liquid Roof over Eternabond Tape

I am looking to repair our rubber roof in a small section that I know has some water leaks/damage. 
1) I want to make a "surgical incision" in the existing rubber roof,
2) Carefully peel away the rubber roof in the suspected areas & do the necessary Luan/plywood replacement/repairs,
3)  Then reglue the rubber roof over the area using a water-based contact cement,
4)  Then seal up the seams with a tape such as Eternabond, then put a coating of EPDM liquid roof over the whole roof.

One might say that #2 above is not easily performed, but the existing rubber allready seems to have
"released" from the plywood substrate.

If I am able to accomplish #2 above, is there any technical reason why #3 & #4 cannot be done?  ei the EPDM not adhering to the backing of the Eternabond tape?

This TT is 11 years old and I do not want to put any more $ than necessary to keep it rolling & water tight for 4-5 more years.
A total roof job at a dealer/repair shop is $3000-$5000, doing it myself is easily $1500 and alot of time & headache, but the above process may only be $600-$700 all said & done.

Ought to work fine, but you want to use the Eternabond Seam Repair tape rather than the "Miracle Tape" that has the shiny finish. The coating will stick better to the seam repair type.

http://www.eternabond.com/RV-Leak-Repair-Products-s/22.htm

Is there any real reason to do #4 (the extra layer of roof sealant) if #3 goes as planned?  I would think that the Eternabond would do just fine by itself if applied as directed.  My Eternabond 1-Step Roofseal is pretty slick on the top/back side, I'm not sure how adhesion would work.

Sounds good but you don't need anything over the Eternabond, it will be fine with out any coating over it.

The TT is 11 years old & I want to do this just once...fix the current issue now & prevent further issues down the road....all in one fell swoop ( I'm guessing 2 weekends max for this fix)

My question is...will the liquid roof adhere to the Eternabond tape?

I'm willing to bet that the majority of us here that have used Eternabond, have not attempted to put anything else over the top.  The Eternabond folks would probably be the best ones to ask this... I'm sure there is contact information for them through the website www.eternabond.com

Just paint the roof coating right up to the edges of the Eternabond. No need to go over it - the Eternabond is more durable than anything you can paint on.

OK dlshunter... Have you made any headway on an answer to your real question about coating over the tape?  I have the exact same situation with a small area I want to take a look at under the rubber roof.  My plan would be to cut open an envelope in the rubber, take a look, do what I have to do, reseal cut seams with eternabond and then recoat entire roof and all seams with the Rapid Roof III system.  The purpose of going over the tape in my mind is that it will look like more of a professional job in the long run without any additional cost or effort.  Very much interested in other's experiences.

I just did a job in early spring and it went fine over the tape as per the advice of the vendor for Liquid Roof. Go to the web site for liquid roof and see the demos for repairs and installing the liquid roof very worth while.....  Jim

Should work fine, but I see no need for the liquid roof unless there is something you are not mentioning.

Pike227...I needed to get the majority of the trips over with before I tear into it.
Tomorrow morning is the day I am breaking out a sharp razor blade and make that first incision.
But I have not decided on which product to use.
I may take pictures and document the progress.

How did it go for you?

Three years or so ago I had multiple leaks on my 30 ft 5Th wheel. CW quoted me $6000, so I bought a roll of 60 mil EDPM, a bucket of adhesive, and some liquid white rubber roofing to change from black to white. hired a handyman at $20/hr, got a friend and did it ourselves in one day. Hard part is gluing the rubber down as you have to use a contact adhesive. Ended up costing a days work and about $700. Old rubber roof was paper thin and dry and came mostly in pieces.
Marty

Hunter--  I did my roof repair back in June and it went great.  I opened up about a 3 square foot area of the rubber, pealed it back, cut the delaminated plywood out, replaced plywood by gluing and screwing (be sure to countersink screws), glued rubber back down with M-1 lap sealant, sealed cut seams with Eternabond and then coated entire roof (including the Eternabond) with Rapid Roof 3 (multi-coat application). A good cleaning of the old rubber prior to Rapid Roof is essential and you have to be carefull not to spread the final coat of Rapid Roof too thin.  As I read somewhere, it is not like painting buy more like frosting a cake. Ultimately I used a five gallon pail on a 8' x 21' sheet.

Before coating the roof, I also redid all of the other roof penetrations, attachments, vents and seams by removing old caulk, installing larger diameter screws where needed and then covered with Eternabond. Prior to coating the entire roof, I put one light coat on a couple of areas of the roof where the rubber looked checkered. I also put two light coats over the Eternabond and any other seams. Time will tell but I am very happy with the way it turned out. By coating over the Eternabond, it looks much more like a professional installation and creates one continuous sheet over the entire roof and eliminates any possibility of the Eternabond edges pealing back. 

The biggest issue was trying to catch a stretch of good weather and not getting caught in the rain.  With the Rapid Roof you want at least 24 hours with no rain and a good sun cure.

One thing I noticed was my old rubber was a very light grey color and when working in my bare feet, I could not stand on the old rubber even 5 seconds without burning my feet.  On the white Rapid Roof, I could stand there all day in bright sun. Cool as a cucumber!

I was a little hesitant at first with a paint on coating but The Rapid Roof appears to be very durable. As I said time will tell but I would not hesitate to do anything differently.  Good luck and write if you have any more questions.

Just finished my 2nd day ( first day and today cut short by MD appt for a pesky sinus infection that just doesn't want to go away)  I made an incision about 8 feet long, parallel to and 14" from the edge that is giving the problem.  Removed all rotten wood, wired wheeled  & wire brushed all suspect areas.  It was recommended that I brush on a mold inhibitor wherever I could reach, so that was done today.  That should be dry by next weekend.
I too want to replace vents that need/look as if they needed/upgrade to Fantastic, etc.
I scraped the lap sealant away from the shower dome, really to see how long it would take.  Not very long, but it started getting hot up there, and as a litigant Caucasian that is allready genetically predisposed to skin cancer, decided to call it a day.
I noticed that once the lap sealant was all gone, there was still a dirty/oily residue remaining on the rubber, of which mine is still very thick, thank the lord!
Do these areas have to be completely devoid-ed of previous lap sealant residue and show clean rubber?  Acetone did not really help very much.
The rubber roof cleaner at the Dealers seem to be glorified & overpriced soap & water, at least to me.
If so, what product did you use?
Also, did you use the Eternabond with the "shiny" , or the "cloth" exterior?
Did you roll on the Rapid Roof in 3 separate coats, or did you just roll over an area 1, 2 , then 3 times?
If you did 3 separate coats, how long did you have to wait before you could walk on it?
On the Rapid Roof website, the kits mention the square foot coverage, tools, brushes, and 4" by 200' of fabric...what fabric is this?
Where did you get the M-1 lap sealant to glue the rubber back down to the wood substrate?
(By the way, allot of flakes came up and stayed attached to the rubber as we peeled it it back, did this happen to you, and if so what did you do?  I plan to just act like it was not there...if it is attached, so be it!)
You mentioned thaty  it took a 5-gallon pail to do 8' x 21' sheet. did you have some left over?  I'm thinking taht 6 galons may not be quite enough for a TT 8' x 29'
I too like the idea of ultimately making the job look professional.  I only plan on owning this one for 4- 5 more years, But I want it in good enough condition to get as much $ when I go to sell it.
I really appreciate your input!

Hunter--  Sounds like you are off and running. From what I have read from others they don't think you have to remove the old caulk before putting on the Eternabond but I think it is a good idea to remove anything that looks loose, flaking or peeling back.  If your old caulk appears to be a petro based (roofing tar) product it may be a problem as this stuff can deteriorate the rubber.  After I took off any loose stuff with a plastic putty knife, I scrubbed and then cleaned with an "Eterna Clean" spray product I purchased from BestMaterials.com  This is where I bought my Eternabond and M-1 Sealant from. I don't know what the spray product is but it was pretty volatile and evaporated quickly.

I had the shiny Eternabond and didn't know there was anything else.  After rolling good, I put a light coat of the Rapid Roof over the Eternabond and lapped over maybe two inches.  Let dry according to the manufacturer's directions and if it looked like it needed a little more I put on a second coat the next day.  This fills the edge of the Eternabond a little more and makes for a smoother final finish.

The fabric you mention that comes with the Rapid Roof is a reinforcing product that is used on seams.  This is an alternate to using the Eternabond altogether.  You put down a coat of Rapid Roof on the seam, lay the fabric down on the wet Rapid Roof and then put a coat over the top.  Very similar to putting down fiberglass but the fabric does not dissolve.  I actually used it over my rear termination strip where the rubber meets the fiberglass and also used it around the roof rack attachments to the roof.  I think it works fine but ultimately used the Eternabond after deciding to cut into the rubber.

The flaking you talk about may just be oxidized rubber.  Use a good RV roof cleaner and some Scotch Pads to scrub good.  If it doesn't come off with that it will be fine to go over with the Rapid Roof. Be prepared to spend some time cleaning your RV after scrubbing the roof and try to hose down before it drys on the sides to save some work.

If you have any questions regarding coverage of the Rapid Roof, feel free to call MN Roofing & RV Specialists (MNRoof.com) That is where I bought mine and they are more than happy to talk your arm off.  They have been in the business of repairing RV roofs for years. I have a 27' RV and with 5 gallons I had about a quart left but I had to redo some seams as i got caught in the rain.

Hope I covered all your questions.  Pike

Pike,
When using the M-1 sealant, did you only use it at the seams of the rubber, or did you spread it out over the field of rubber before you lapped the rubber back over the substrate?

The flakes I was referring to werte the little flecks that make up the wafer board that was used for the roof surface.

I was thinking of using some type of contact cement to place the rubber back over the new roof material.

I believe it is recommended you glue the entire rubber sheet down to the plywood.  I used the M-1 to do that with a putty knife.  There may also be some other similar products that are used to glue down EPDM.